From mandarin collars to sweeping capes: East‑West dialogue redefined for AW25/26
Blending Chinese heritage with modern structure, ZHUOJIAREN x RED PALACE’s AW25/26 collection presented a quiet strength—where sculpted silhouettes, rich textiles, and refined detailing met on equal footing.
When Zhuojiaren joined forces with Red Palace at Thailand Fashion Week’s Femme runway, it wasn’t just a show, it was a statement. The collection was built with intention on clarity and control. The Femme lineup leaned into precision: strong silhouettes, minimal styling, and a deliberate use of texture and tradition. Rather than dramatizing heritage, the designers distilled it—offering a wardrobe that was structured, symbolic, and fully modern.
At the heart of this collaboration are two distinct yet deeply connected design houses. Zhuojiaren, led by creative mentor Benjamin Wong, is known for its refined tailoring and intellectual approach to form. Partnering with Red Palace—a heritage label founded in 2007 by Zhang Yaru and her daughter Deng Liyuan, who now heads design at Zhuojiaren—the collection draws from a shared lineage. Their vision is clear: to merge tradition with clarity, and craft garments that carry the weight of legacy without ever feeling nostalgic.
The Autumn/Winter 2025–26 collection is rooted in the idea of evolution—not as departure from heritage, but as a refined progression. Drawing on symbols of Chinese dynastic elegance, the designers explored how tradition can be reshaped through precision and restraint. The collection doesn’t speak loudly; instead, it holds presence through silhouette, material, and form. There’s a quiet dialogue running through each look—between East and West, past and present, heritage and intention. Rather than reference history directly, the pieces echo it: in the fold of a sleeve, a collar line, a choice of fabric. It’s heritage, held in tension with modern clarity.
The collection incorporated a palette which was rich, controlled, and intentionally regal—deep emerald, garnet, sapphire, and midnight black formed the foundation, punctuated by ivory, steel gray, and hints of muted gold. Fabric choices leaned into tactility: brocades with quiet sheen, wool blends with sculptural weight, and satin that moved with understated fluidity. Embroidery was used sparingly but meaningfully—often tonal, sometimes metallic, always placed with precision. The collection relied on texture to speak where embellishment might once have been louder, creating depth without drama. Every material choice reinforced the collection’s core philosophy: heritage reinterpreted through minimalism and balance.
Additionally, the runway opened to a full house at Bangkok’s EM Quartier, with Zhuojiaren x Red Palace positioned as one of the day’s standout presentations. On a stark runway that mirrored the collection’s restraint, each look emerged with composure and intention. Industry observers quickly noted the collaboration’s clarity of vision—refined, composed, and resistant to spectacle. The phrase “a dynasty of design” began circulating backstage and across social media, capturing the inter-generational depth and quiet power on display. In a week of bold gestures, this was a collection that stood out by doing less, and doing it with precision.
This collection wasn’t just offering a highlight of Thailand Fashion Week—it was a refined case for the future of cultural fashion. It showed how heritage, when edited with care and confidence, can move forward without losing its core. In an industry often driven by noise, this collection chose discipline over drama. And in doing so, it left a lasting impression: that quiet design, when grounded in purpose, speaks the loudest.
