From the luminous intricacy of handcrafted couture to the expressive language of fine jewellery, Dubai Fashion Week opened its Spring/Summer 2027 edition with a study in craftsmanship, individuality and modern glamour.
Fashion has a particular way of announcing a new season. Sometimes it begins with a silhouette that commands attention; at other times, it is the precision of an embroidered surface, the movement of a gown or the quiet interplay between fabric and light. At the opening of Dubai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027, it was the many expressions of couture that established the mood, bringing together designers whose interpretations of glamour were as individual as their creative processes.
Opening the schedule was Kuwaiti designer Yousef AlJasmi, whose Dubai Fashion Week debut centred on a sophisticated palette of black, cream and silver. The collection moved through a language of striking silhouettes and considered detailing, allowing colour, texture and form to establish its visual identity. AlJasmi described the collection as a reflection of what he felt in the moment, an approach that placed creative instinct at the heart of the presentation. The result was a compelling opening statement, rooted in the enduring appeal of evening wear while giving each look its own presence.
If AlJasmi approached glamour through a restrained palette, Sara Pedram explored it through mythology and symbolism. Her The Simorgh Collection, presented under Sara Pedram Creations, drew inspiration from the mythical bird associated with strength and wisdom. The collection translated this narrative into elaborate couture gowns, where delicate hand embroidery met floral artistry, hand-painted details and intricate embellishments. Each technique contributed to a richly layered visual language, with the garments serving as expressions of both technical skill and storytelling. In Pedram’s hands, the symbolism of the Simorgh became a framework for exploring femininity through artistry and meaning.
Handcrafted couture took another form with Pallavi Puri, who made her official Dubai Fashion Week debut with a presentation spanning 50 looks across three chapters. The Indian designer brought together ornate embroidery, elaborate embellishments and the house’s signature equestrian influences, alongside a fresh floral edit. Behind the collection was a network of more than 150 artisans drawing on over 21 traditional art forms, underscoring the scale of craftsmanship involved in translating intricate ideas into finished garments.
The presence of Indian supermodel Lisa Haydon and Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdelnour as showstoppers added another dimension to the presentation. Their appearances connected the collection’s intricate detailing with the visual impact of the runway, bringing the house’s interpretation of couture into focus. Beyond its decorative richness, Puri’s showcase highlighted the collaborative nature of couture, where heritage techniques, skilled hands and a contemporary design vision converge in a single garment.
The relationship between clothing and adornment became the central conversation in the presentation by Krésha Bajaj in collaboration with Alok Lodha Jewels. Titled The Garden of Borrowed Light, Bajaj’s collection explored the fleeting beauty of movement, memory and light. Fluid silhouettes, complex beadwork, painterly florals and expressive embroidery gave the garments an almost organic quality, with surface decoration becoming an essential part of their identity.
The accompanying jewellery brought coloured gemstones into this visual narrative. Alok Lodha Jewels, whose legacy dates to 1968, complemented the collection with statement pieces that extended its relationship with colour, craftsmanship and ornamentation. Rather than treating jewellery as a finishing touch, the collaboration placed it within the wider composition of each look, illustrating how couture and fine jewellery can inform one another.
Across these four presentations, embellishment emerged in distinctly different forms: through AlJasmi’s sophisticated palette, Pedram’s symbolic storytelling, Puri’s intricate artisanal work and Bajaj’s interplay of textiles and gemstones. Their approaches offered a reminder that couture is defined as much by the decisions behind a garment as by the impression it leaves on the runway.
As the opening day of Dubai Fashion Week SS27 unfolded, this diversity of expression established an engaging starting point for the season. The emphasis was on the relationship between creative instinct and meticulous execution, with each designer offering a different perspective on what contemporary glamour can look like. In a fashion landscape that continues to draw inspiration from multiple cultures and traditions, the opening day made a case for craftsmanship as a language that travels across borders while retaining its individual voice.
From the luminous intricacy of handcrafted couture to the expressive language of fine jewellery, Dubai Fashion Week opened its Spring/Summer 2027 edition with a study in craftsmanship, individuality and modern glamour.
Fashion has a particular way of announcing a new season. Sometimes it begins with a silhouette that commands attention; at other times, it is the precision of an embroidered surface, the movement of a gown or the quiet interplay between fabric and light. At the opening of Dubai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027, it was the many expressions of couture that established the mood, bringing together designers whose interpretations of glamour were as individual as their creative processes.
Opening the schedule was Kuwaiti designer Yousef AlJasmi, whose Dubai Fashion Week debut centred on a sophisticated palette of black, cream and silver. The collection moved through a language of striking silhouettes and considered detailing, allowing colour, texture and form to establish its visual identity. AlJasmi described the collection as a reflection of what he felt in the moment, an approach that placed creative instinct at the heart of the presentation. The result was a compelling opening statement, rooted in the enduring appeal of evening wear while giving each look its own presence.
If AlJasmi approached glamour through a restrained palette, Sara Pedram explored it through mythology and symbolism. Her The Simorgh Collection, presented under Sara Pedram Creations, drew inspiration from the mythical bird associated with strength and wisdom. The collection translated this narrative into elaborate couture gowns, where delicate hand embroidery met floral artistry, hand-painted details and intricate embellishments. Each technique contributed to a richly layered visual language, with the garments serving as expressions of both technical skill and storytelling. In Pedram’s hands, the symbolism of the Simorgh became a framework for exploring femininity through artistry and meaning.
Handcrafted couture took another form with Pallavi Puri, who made her official Dubai Fashion Week debut with a presentation spanning 50 looks across three chapters. The Indian designer brought together ornate embroidery, elaborate embellishments and the house’s signature equestrian influences, alongside a fresh floral edit. Behind the collection was a network of more than 150 artisans drawing on over 21 traditional art forms, underscoring the scale of craftsmanship involved in translating intricate ideas into finished garments.
The presence of Indian supermodel Lisa Haydon and Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdelnour as showstoppers added another dimension to the presentation. Their appearances connected the collection’s intricate detailing with the visual impact of the runway, bringing the house’s interpretation of couture into focus. Beyond its decorative richness, Puri’s showcase highlighted the collaborative nature of couture, where heritage techniques, skilled hands and a contemporary design vision converge in a single garment.
The relationship between clothing and adornment became the central conversation in the presentation by Krésha Bajaj in collaboration with Alok Lodha Jewels. Titled The Garden of Borrowed Light, Bajaj’s collection explored the fleeting beauty of movement, memory and light. Fluid silhouettes, complex beadwork, painterly florals and expressive embroidery gave the garments an almost organic quality, with surface decoration becoming an essential part of their identity.
The accompanying jewellery brought coloured gemstones into this visual narrative. Alok Lodha Jewels, whose legacy dates to 1968, complemented the collection with statement pieces that extended its relationship with colour, craftsmanship and ornamentation. Rather than treating jewellery as a finishing touch, the collaboration placed it within the wider composition of each look, illustrating how couture and fine jewellery can inform one another.
Across these four presentations, embellishment emerged in distinctly different forms: through AlJasmi’s sophisticated palette, Pedram’s symbolic storytelling, Puri’s intricate artisanal work and Bajaj’s interplay of textiles and gemstones. Their approaches offered a reminder that couture is defined as much by the decisions behind a garment as by the impression it leaves on the runway.
As the opening day of Dubai Fashion Week SS27 unfolded, this diversity of expression established an engaging starting point for the season. The emphasis was on the relationship between creative instinct and meticulous execution, with each designer offering a different perspective on what contemporary glamour can look like. In a fashion landscape that continues to draw inspiration from multiple cultures and traditions, the opening day made a case for craftsmanship as a language that travels across borders while retaining its individual voice.
