Dubai Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2026/27 began not with spectacle, but with composure. On opening night, the energy was restrained yet deliberate as Italian fashion house Alberta Ferretti made its Middle East debut, setting a considered tone for the week ahead. It was a reminder that confidence in fashion does not always need volume—sometimes, it arrives softly, and stays longer.
Fresh from Milan and presented as the opening show of the season, Alberta Ferretti’s Portrait of a Lady unfolded as a thoughtful introduction to Dubai Fashion Week’s AW26/27 narrative. The choice felt intentional. As Dubai continues to position itself as a global fashion capital, the presence of a house so deeply rooted in elegance and craftsmanship underscored the city’s evolving role as a meeting point for international design and cultural exchange.
Designed by Creative Director Lorenzo Serafini, the collection reimagined the Victorian heroine through a contemporary lens—less romanticised, more self-possessed. This was femininity expressed through clarity rather than ornamentation. The woman envisioned on the runway did not demand attention; she held it.
Chiffon appeared in sculpted, almost protective silhouettes, moving fluidly with the body rather than clinging to it. There was a sense of ease in how the garments existed—never rushed, never excessive. In contrast, leather and sharp tailoring introduced structure, grounding the collection in strength and intention. Trench coat elements evolved into dresses, tulle met leather in controlled opposition, and skirts emerged as a central point of expression, carrying both movement and purpose.
The palette was deep and restrained. Shades of black and ivory formed the foundation, while ruby and aubergine added warmth without tipping into drama. Accessories followed the same philosophy: slouchy boots and flat ballerinas prioritised movement and realism, while velvet evening capes and discreet embellishments elevated the looks without overwhelming them. Tubular beading and feather accents appeared sparingly, offering texture rather than sparkle.
What stood out most was the collection’s emotional restraint. Serafini’s vision did not rely on overt statements. Instead, it proposed a woman who dresses inwardly—her confidence instinctive, her presence assured. In a season where fashion often leans toward excess, Portrait of a Lady felt quietly radical in its refusal to perform.
The significance of the moment was amplified by the presence of Alberta Ferretti, Vice President of the Aeffe Group, who attended the show alongside Serafini. Her presence marked more than a debut; it signalled a deliberate step into the region, recognising Dubai as an important voice within the global fashion conversation.
From the venue to the pacing of the show, the opening night reflected Dubai Fashion Week’s growing maturity. There was a sense of balance—between international prestige and local ambition, between scale and substance. The audience, a mix of global industry figures, regional creatives, and fashion insiders, responded with attentiveness rather than frenzy. It was a show that invited looking closer.
Dubai Fashion Week, co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3), part of TECOM Group PJSC, and the Arab Fashion Council, continues to shape itself as more than a regional showcase. With each season, it asserts its place on the global calendar—not by imitation, but by offering a platform where diverse narratives can coexist.
As the week progresses through 6 February, the schedule brings together a mix of international and regional voices, including CTRL+BLOCK x Mrs Keepa, NIG Global x London School of Trends, That Concept Store, Narma, and John Richmond. Yet it is Alberta Ferretti’s opening statement that lingers—a reminder that fashion’s most powerful moments are often the ones that arrive without announcement. Dubai Fashion Week AW26/27 did not open loudly. It opened with intention. And sometimes, that is exactly how lasting impressions are made.
