Day three at Dubai Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2026/27 was shaped by the clothes — how they were built, worn, and remembered. Rather than following a single mood, the day unfolded through contrast: pieces that felt lived-in and personal, garments defined by structure and restraint, and moments where fashion leaned fully into theatre. It was a day best understood by looking closely.
The first impressions came from outside the traditional runway setting. Emergency Room’s collaboration with Timberland, titled Hey, what are you up to?, unfolded on the sidelines of the d3 basketball court, grounding fashion in everyday life. One-of-one upcycled garments formed the core of the showcase, paired with Timberland’s iconic boots and boat shoes. The clothes felt touched and familiar — more about real connection than polished presentation. Set against a soundscape of digital notifications, the experience reflected modern intimacy and communication, reminding us that fashion can exist comfortably within the rhythms of daily life.
A shift in tone followed with collections rooted in form and precision. Presented by FAD Institute Dubai, Dhara Shah unveiled a refined body of work inspired by Victorian aesthetics. Structured corsetry, defined silhouettes, and intricate detailing shaped the collection, balancing romantic softness with architectural clarity. The pieces felt controlled yet expressive, offering a contemporary interpretation of historical references without excess. The presentation also underscored FAD’s continued commitment to nurturing emerging designers and placing them confidently on an international platform.
That sense of restraint continued with Absent Findings, presented by Polimoda. Titled Not What You Think, the AW26 collection drew from architecture, memory, and surrealism. Under the creative direction of Shivin Singh, these influences translated into sharp, introspective silhouettes that invited closer attention. The colour palette, inspired by the emotive works of Francis Bacon, added depth and intensity without overpowering the garments. The result was a collection that felt cerebral yet wearable — designed to be observed rather than rushed through.
As the day progressed, fashion moved into a more expressive, theatrical register. Weinsanto, presented by La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, unveiled Les Irrésistibles Favorites, a collection inspired by the wit and allure of 17th- and 18th-century courtesans such as Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry. Sculptural corsetry, rich textiles, and couture-level craftsmanship transformed the runway into a stage. A standout moment came in the form of a wood-crafted dress inspired by marquetry, underscoring the house’s dedication to technique and imagination. Marking Weinsanto’s fifth anniversary, the showcase embraced fashion as performance — indulgent, playful, and unapologetically bold.
In contrast, Anthropologie’s debut at Dubai Fashion Week offered a quieter interpretation of modern femininity. The AW26/27 presentation blended effortless elegance with elevated craftsmanship, featuring a curated selection of the brand’s designs alongside regional labels. The focus remained on wearability and collaboration, with pieces designed to move easily beyond the runway. The showcase reflected Anthropologie Arabia’s growing global presence while staying rooted in ease and approachability.
Closing the day, BLSSD brought the focus back to tailoring. The AW26/27 collection, titled YET, refined the brand’s signature aesthetic through subtle shifts in proportion and volume. Anchored in a restrained palette of black, white, grey, tan, brown, and army green, the collection introduced texture through vegan leather, suiting, silk, and understated sequins. Signature asymmetry and intentional detailing added interest while maintaining a sense of quiet confidence. The clothes felt composed and assured — a measured conclusion to a visually diverse day.
Alongside the runway presentations, the DFW Buyers’ Programme continued at Dubai Design District, reinforcing the commercial relevance of the collections on display. As international retailers explored emerging talent and established names, the showroom reflected the same diversity seen across the day’s showcases.
By the end of day three, Dubai Fashion Week AW26/27 revealed another layer of its identity. From upcycled one-of-one pieces and architectural silhouettes to couture theatre and refined tailoring, the clothes spoke in different languages — each distinct, each confident, and each leaving a lasting impression.
